After eight months living in Paris, I’ve learned that there is only so much good living one can handle before the Spartan life becomes mightily attractive. I don’t mean to imply that life in Paris is necessarily full-tilt all the time, but only that a two-week dose of its finer pleasures can induce a state of decadence so deadening that at the end of such a spree, my visiting friend and I were clawing at the memories of past spinach smoothies and of bounding through our days with nary a nap.

As she has left today, and we recalibrate to a semblance of balance and decorum, I would like to suggest that it is possible to truly indulge in Paris without needing to thrash one’s senses to utter dullness. The key, here, is knowing when and where to have foie gras (if you must); how much ham is just enough (because there’s no looking back once you’ve gone too far); the only three places to order hot chocolate (though best limit it to two per fortnight); where to get your fill of chlorophyll; the greatest workout that doesn’t put you in the company of flailing arm hazards; and the hour that you must leave the peacock-festooned private bar, no matter how charming the bird-keeper.

Alors – the secrets to staying at the top of your game without falling into gaminess.

Foie Gras

The truly best I’ve had is prepared in the glorious Art Nouveau gem Vivant, one of my favorite restaurants in all of Paris, located in the 10th. Served with cherries, it is so delightful! The memory of it will linger – no need to forsake your animal rights’ concerns repeatedly!

Jambon

It’s easy to overdo ham in Paris, where practically every sandwich and salad features it as a main ingredient. I say, skip both and head to L’Avant Comptoir for double duty that’s worth luxuriating in, if only in small, shared quantities. Order the croquettes and a planche to share, but don’t stop there…just switch food groups!

Chocolat Chaud

Despite what people may tell you about Ladurée, or even Carette in the 16th, the far and away hot chocolate mecca is Angelina, which serves a particularly bold version of thick chocolate mediated only by your reasoned addition of whipped cream. There’s no beating l’Africaine.

If your tendencies towards indulgence favor those of the highly developed (Marie Antoinette) variety, consider the old Catholic custom of sipping yours in bed at l’Hotel George V. We are talking indulgence, no?

Finally, if you are a purist who prefers your cacao unadulterated by sugar, try the Venezeulan cup at Café Coutume. Deliciously heady!

La Salade

Unless you’re lunching at Le Pain Quotidien, it’s not really worth splurging at the lunch hour when such divinities await you at all others hours. So, find the nearest street market and gather fixings for a salad, as densely green as possible! Reliable markets on rue Cler, rue de Poncelet and rue Levis. Naturalia and BioCoop also have organic produce, and Kioko market has other, more exotic fare.

Square Caulaincourt

Not far from the Lamarck-Caulaincourt metro station, which boasts an impression spiral staircase of its own, is an epic contribution to the world’s collection of public staircases. This one, in my opinion, far exceeds the Santa Monica stairs as it has far less foot traffic and is a more efficient set with less idle walking between flights. 100+ steps of burning glory!

2h00

Trust me.